Pumpkin pie

The weather is simply fantastic so I made the most of it on the terrace, and despite feeling a little weary managed to make time for some writing while Jo went off to take artistic photographs in and around Bergerac. She retuned with a baguette sticking out at a jaunty angle from under her arm.

Later in the afternoon, after lunch service had finished, we made our way over to L’Enfance de Lard for a kir royale heartstarter. Feeling fortified, we set off in the hire car to Issigeac for the annual pumpkin fair! Now if you like pumpkins, there is no better place to be. The pretty little town was brimful of pumpkins and gourds of every colour, shape and size – in fact some of the shapes would have provided sufficient 'Ooh looks a bit rude' gags for Esther Rantzen to fill a whole series of ‘That’s Life’. I have never seen such large ones either – some so big if you hollowed them out you could house a small family. Somebody should tell John Prescott.

Having had our fill of bulging pumpkin sights, we headed back towards Bergerac, stopping off at the Chateau de Monbazillac for a tasting of the famous sweet white wine, before arriving at some friends of M&A for aperitifs. We were treated to an intriguing drink, which looked and tasted a bit like real apple juice, but is actually the result of the very first pressing of the grapes in the winemaking process. It tastes delicious and kicks like a mule.

Back in the car and this time we headed west following the Dordogne to the charming little town called Tremolat which sits in the loop of one of the river’s many meanders. We were treated to pink champagne and exquisite canapés in the old chateau, followed by a tour of the beautiful restaurant and dining rooms. They had a lovely black Labrador lugubriously guarding the reception. She was just like Sammie and I came over all sentimental.

Across the road to the bistro for a delicious meal – chestnut soup and snails, cod and chocolate mousse and more champagne, while a cat stretched up to our laps for tidbits. We drove back taking the scenic route along the Dordogne where, if it had been daylight we would have seen some dramatic views. Back home for nightcaps and pyjamas.